![]() There’s always a long line of hungry hot-dog freaks, and it’s always standing room only in this bright yellow-lit room, lined with a white wooden shelf bearing industrial-strength saltshakers (made of glass jars with holes hand-punched in the top). That’s right: the fries, fresh cut with a hand-operated mechanism straight out of the Eisenhower administration, are laid gently on top of the dog, creating a steamy union of dog and fry that miraculously benefits both. What you get at this middle-American icon is a perfectly warmed wiener with world-class snap, nestled in a steamed bun and layered with mustard, relish, onion, sport peppers (if you want ’em), and fries. ![]() No tomato, and you don’t dare ask for ketchup. View Chicago suburban diningâ€���west in a larger mapĪ Gene & Jude’s hot dog, like a Cezanne, represents the apotheosis of a form, inessentials stripped away, almost the platonic ideal of the hot dog. Rob Lopataįind our favorite 12 restaurants out west The former co-owners execute an almost identical menu equally well at Noodles Delight (853 E. Yet he also has the chops to switch gears and deliver a rock-solid version of northern-style vegetarian chicken (marinated tofu skin rolled and filled with bamboo shoots and shiitakes) or Hong Kong-style wonton noodle soup, as well as chop suey and kung pao. The chef at Taiwanese-owned Fabulous Noodles prepares amazingly good renditions of Cantonese classics like beef with bitter melon over wok-blistered chow fun noodles or lo bak go, panfried turnip cake studded with nuggets of crispy cured pork. Ingredients are high-quality, some of them coming from Partridge and Pancake’s Ohio farm, others from the backyard greenhouse the team built. Three flatbreads in particular take up quite a bit of surface area, but their crusts are light and wafer thin. This is simple food, simply prepared, and when a server promises that plates are shareable, it’s true-from a crock of fatty pork rillettes and pickled Rainier cherries to a pair of long crostini topped with white bean puree and thick, fresh-cured sardine fillets. And the menu from Beth Partridge and Dan Pancake (ex-Cafe Spiaggia and Spiaggia, respectively) is certainly Mantuano-esque, most tellingly in a trio of ruddy handmade pastas, such as a generous tangle of tagliatelle with rock shrimp and bay scallops, a creamy sweet-pea puree that perfumes the entire dining room when it leaves the kitchen, or a voluptuous Taylor Street-style red sauce that blankets four fat pork-and-spinach-stuffed throw pillows. ![]() Former Spiaggia wine steward John Aranza’s nerdtastic horrorbilia decorates the bright, inviting Berwyn storefront with a long communal table running down the front and a spacious bar in the back. The four principals behind Autre Monde all worked under Tony Mantuano in various restaurants. This neighborhoody pan-Mediterranean bistro could easily be a subject of one of those “Why Berwyn?” billboards that have popped up all over Chicago to convince potential home buyers of the charms of New Svengoolieland. Best of Chicago 2022: Music & Nightlife.Best of Chicago 2022: Sports & Recreation. ![]()
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